Cheese In A Box

Gouda or Noord-Hollands cheese: what’s the difference?

·By Herriaan Franssen·5 min read

The difference between Gouda cheese and Noord-Hollands cheese is one of the most frequently asked questions at the cheese counter. Both are semi-hard cow’s milk cheeses from the Netherlands, both are made in exactly the same way, and yet they taste different. The answer lies not in the recipe but in the soil, the milk and a European regulation that most people have never heard of. In this article, we explain the four real differences between these two classics, so you know which one to put on your board and when.

Same recipe, different landscape

Both Gouda cheese and Noord-Hollands cheese start with cow’s milk, rennet and starter culture. The production process is nearly identical: the curd is cut, washed, pressed into a flat cylinder, then brined and aged. The difference lies in what the cows eat. Gouda cheese originally comes from the Green Heart region, where grass grows on peat and clay soils. Noord-Hollands cheese comes from the polders around Alkmaar and Purmerend, with brackish pastures just behind the dunes. That small difference in soil and microclimate carries through into the milk, and therefore into the flavor of the cheese.

Only Noord-Hollands cheese has a PDO designation

This is the biggest legal dividing line. Noord-Hollandse Gouda has held a European Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) since 1996. That means the milk must come from cows grazing in Noord-Holland, and the cheese must also be produced within that province. The name “Gouda” itself carries no such protection: Gouda cheese can be made anywhere in the world, even in Germany or the United States. Only Gouda Holland, which holds a European Protected Geographical Indication (PGI), must be made in the Netherlands from Dutch milk. If you want to be sure you’re buying Dutch Gouda, look for the PGI mark of Gouda Holland, for farmhouse cheese (a Traditional Speciality Guaranteed, made from raw milk on the farm), or for the name of a specific cheese farm. You can read more about that designation in our article about Noord-Hollands cheese.

The flavor difference, explained honestly

The difference in flavor is subtle but recognizable once you taste them side by side. Noord-Hollands cheese, said to be influenced by the saltier pastures, often has a slightly more pronounced, bolder character. Especially in the young and mature stages, you can detect a faint saline note that Gouda from elsewhere tends to lack. Gouda from the Green Heart region, on the other hand, usually tastes softer and creamier, with more buttery notes in the mature versions. With long aging, the flavors converge: an extra-aged Gouda and an aged Noord-Hollands resemble each other more than their younger counterparts, because aging partly overrides the character of the milk. What you do get in both cases are those crunchy tyrosine crystals, which we explored in depth in an earlier article.

Which one do you choose, and when?

For sandwiches, young Gouda usually works best: mild enough not to compete with the toppings. On a charcuterie and cheese board, mature Gouda or mature Noord-Hollands sits beautifully next to nuts and a mustard. For a cheese board after dinner, go for an aged Noord-Hollands or an extra-aged Gouda, paired with fig bread and a glass of port. If you want to taste the difference yourself, a blind comparison of the same aging stage from both varieties is the best approach. For more background on Gouda as a cheese style, check out our explanation of what Gouda cheese actually is.

The four differences at a glance

  • Origin: Gouda can be made anywhere in the world, Noord-Hollands only in Noord-Holland.
  • Milk: Noord-Hollands cows graze on brackish pastures behind the dunes, which is often credited with giving the cheese a slightly spicier flavor.
  • Protection: Noord-Hollandse Gouda holds PDO status; Gouda does not as a generic name.
  • Flavor: Noord-Hollands is slightly spicier and saltier in the young to mature stages, while Gouda is a little creamier. With long aging, the two move closer together.
Gouda cheese in slices and wedges placed side by side on a light serving board with a cheese knife
Gouda and Noord-Hollands cheese are best compared at the same aging stage. Photo: Mike Dierken via Unsplash.

Want to taste for yourself?

At Cheese In A Box you’ll find both classic Gouda and Noord-Hollands in the range, freshly cut to order. If you’d like to order good Gouda cheese online, choose from the selection below:

Cheese board with mature Gouda, walnuts, grapes and crackers
Mature Gouda or Noord-Hollands pairs wonderfully with walnuts, grapes and a cracker. Photo: Gonzalo Guzmán García via Pexels.

Not sure which aging stage you like best? Take your time finding out with our cheese subscription: four special cheeses delivered to your door every month, each with a short tasting card.

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