What exactly is washed-rind cheese? Washed-rind cheese is cheese whose rind is regularly washed with brine, beer, wine or spirits during the aging process. This washing encourages a red-orange bacterial flora to develop on the rind, giving the cheese its characteristic color, bold aroma and full, creamy flavor. Well-known washed-rind cheeses include Époisses, Taleggio and Morbier. The category is also known as washed-rind cheese.
How does the red rind develop?
Where a white-rind cheese like brie owes its rind to a mold that grows on the surface, washed-rind cheese owes its rind to bacteria. During aging, the cheese is washed or brushed repeatedly with a liquid: sometimes simply brine, sometimes beer, cider, wine or a regional spirit like Marc de Bourgogne. That moist, salty environment is ideal for Brevibacterium linens, the bacterium responsible for the rind’s red-orange color and its distinctive, pronounced aroma. The more often and the longer the cheese is washed, the more intense the color, the aroma and the flavor.
What does washed-rind cheese taste like?
The aroma of washed-rind cheese is often bolder than the flavor. Beneath the assertive rind, you’ll typically find a surprisingly creamy, soft and full interior with notes of butter, nuts and umami. There’s plenty of variety within the category: Époisses is intense and spicy, Taleggio is bold but supple, and Morbier is gently fruity with a light earthy undertone. If you’re new to washed-rind cheese, a milder variety like Le Campagnier is the most approachable place to start.
Which washed-rind cheeses do we carry?
Our range includes six washed-rind cheeses, each with its own character:
- Époisses, the most famous washed-rind cheese from Burgundy (AOP), with a rind washed in Marc de Bourgogne. Intensely aromatic, creamy and spicy.
- Taleggio, an Italian classic from Lombardy with DOP protection. Soft, tacky rind, creamy interior and a bold, full flavor.
- Morbier au lait cru, a French semi-firm raw-milk cheese (AOP, Franche-Comté) with its signature black ash layer running through the middle. Gently fruity and creamy.
- Chimay Poteaupré, a Belgian Trappist cheese from the Abbey of Chimay. Semi-firm, full and creamy, with the refinement of a monastic tradition.
- Le Campagnier, a French soft cheese with a lightly creamy texture and a mild, buttery flavor. The most accessible entry point into the category.
- Le Petit Doruvael, an artisanal Dutch soft cheese from Vlooswijk farm in Montfoort. A special Dutch washed-rind cheese, tangy and bold.
How to serve and store washed-rind cheese
Take washed-rind cheese out of the fridge half an hour to an hour before serving. At room temperature the paste becomes supple and the aromas open up. The rind is edible, so do give it a try, though if you find it too assertive you can simply leave it aside. Classic accompaniments are dark bread, figs, honey and nuts, paired in the glass with a Trappist beer, an aromatic white wine like Gewürztraminer, or the regional spirit used to wash the rind. Store washed-rind cheese in cheese paper in the fridge, preferably away from other cheeses: the aroma and bacterial flora spread easily.
Frequently asked questions about washed-rind cheese
Is the rind of washed-rind cheese edible?
Yes. The rind is an integral part of the flavor and character of the cheese. If you find it too intense, you can simply leave it aside.
Why does washed-rind cheese smell so strong?
The aroma comes from the bacterial flora on the washed rind. The flavor is almost always milder than the smell suggests: beneath the rind you’ll find a creamy, full interior.
What’s the difference between washed-rind and white-rind cheese?
White-rind cheese (brie, camembert) gets its rind from a mold and tastes mild and mushroomy. Washed-rind cheese gets its rind from repeated washing with brine or spirits and is bolder in both aroma and flavor.
Where can you buy washed-rind cheese?
Online at Cheese In A Box: six washed-rind cheeses, freshly cut from the wheel, vacuum-sealed and delivered to your door. Browse the range using the button at the bottom of this article.
What drinks pair well with washed-rind cheese?
Trappist beer is the classic choice, especially with an abbey cheese like Chimay Poteaupré. Aromatic white wines like Gewürztraminer also work beautifully, as does the regional spirit used to wash the rind.
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