Taleggio

Taleggio is an Italian semi-soft cow’s milk cheese from Lombardy with an unmistakable washed rind and a surprisingly creamy heart. The cheese takes its name from the Val Taleggio, an Alpine valley in the province of Bergamo, and has held European DOP protected-origin status since 1996. The distinctive pink-orange rind, soft sticky texture and strong aroma make Taleggio one of Italy’s most recognizable washed-rind cheeses. Anyone tasting it for the first time quickly discovers that the smell is deceiving: behind that assertive aroma lies a mild, buttery and lightly fruity flavor with a hint of hay and a salty finish.

• Origin: Italy (Lombardy, Piedmont, Veneto)
• Milk type: Cow’s milk (raw or pasteurized)
• Texture: Semi-soft, creamy interior, washed rind
• Flavor: Mild and buttery, lightly fruity, salty finish
• Aging: 6 to 10 weeks
• Fat content: Approximately 48% in dry matter
• Protection: DOP since 1996
• Shape: Square, approximately 20 by 20 centimeters, around 2 kilos

What is Taleggio?

Taleggio is one of Italy’s oldest washed-rind cheeses. Its production dates back to at least the tenth century, when farmers in the Val Taleggio processed surplus milk in cool caves to make a cheese that would keep. The combination of humid mountain air and stable temperatures in those caves created the unique aging conditions that give the cheese its character. For a long time the cheese was simply called stracchino, a collective name for soft Lombardian cheeses, but in the twentieth century Taleggio acquired its own name and, in 1996, its DOP protection.

The DOP rules specify that Taleggio may only be produced within a defined area covering the provinces of Bergamo, Brescia, Como, Cremona, Lecco, Lodi, Milan and Pavia in Lombardy, plus Novara in Piedmont and Treviso in Veneto. Only cheese prepared within this area from local cow’s milk and aged in the prescribed way for 6 to 10 weeks may bear the Taleggio name. Every wheel carries a branded DOP stamp with four round circles, so you can tell at a glance in the shop whether you’re holding an authentic Taleggio.

How Taleggio is made

Taleggio is produced using the so-called pasta cruda method, in which the curd is not heated. Fresh cow’s milk is lightly acidified, then rennet is added, causing the milk to coagulate in about half an hour. The curd is carefully cut into dice-sized pieces and ladled into square molds, where the whey drains off naturally. The salt is applied dry to the outside rather than mixed into the curd, which contributes to the mild character of the cheese.

Aging is the stage that gives Taleggio its recognizable character. The cheeses are placed in cool, humid rooms where they remain for 6 to 10 weeks. Every week they are turned by hand and washed with a sponge dipped in brine. This washing keeps unwanted molds at bay, feeds the so-called smear-ripening culture (Brevibacterium linens) and gives the rind its typical pink-orange color with white mold spots. During aging the interior gradually becomes creamier while the rind develops its characteristic aroma. A well-aged Taleggio feels slightly sticky and gives a little under gentle pressure just beneath the rind.

What does Taleggio taste like?

The flavor of Taleggio is surprisingly approachable for anyone who, based on the smell, was expecting a bold, sharp cheese. The interior of a young Taleggio is mild, buttery and lightly sweet with a wisp of hay and a hint of nuts. As the cheese matures it gains more depth: a fruity note of yellow fruits like pear and apricot, a nutty richness and a salty finish that lingers. The texture ranges from firm and creamy in a younger example to almost runny and unctuous in a fully aged one.

The rind of Taleggio is edible, though many cheese lovers choose to trim it away thinly because its flavor is considerably more pungent and earthy than the interior. Those who do eat the rind will taste a full palette of umami and subtle mushroom notes, a lovely contrast to the soft core.

Why does Taleggio smell so strong?

The smell is the first thing you notice about Taleggio, and it comes primarily from the washed rind. The weekly brine wash feeds a specific culture of smear-ripening bacteria, most notably Brevibacterium linens. These bacteria produce sulfur-containing compounds responsible for the assertive, sometimes foot-like aroma. It’s the same family of smells you’ll find in Munster, Limburger and Époisses.

Something important to keep in mind: the smell of Taleggio is not an indicator of its flavor. The aroma is a property of the rind, not of the interior. Cut the cheese open and what you’ll smell is mostly a ripe, creamy, lightly sweet fragrance. If the kitchen smell is too intense for your liking, store Taleggio in a closed cheese box in the fridge and take it out only half an hour before serving. At room temperature the cheese develops its full flavor, while the aroma spreads less in an enclosed space.

How to enjoy Taleggio

Taleggio is a versatile cheese that works equally well on a charcuterie and cheese board and in hot dishes. Its soft texture and melting qualities have made it a favorite with cooks in northern Italy, where Taleggio plays a regular role in risotto, polenta and pasta sauces.

On the cheese board

Serve Taleggio at room temperature, ideally taken out of the fridge half an hour to three quarters of an hour before serving. Pair it with country bread or a lightly sweet focaccia, white grapes, pear, walnuts and honey. A spoonful of chestnut honey or fig jam lifts the mild flavor without overpowering the cheese. On a charcuterie and cheese board, Taleggio sits nicely alongside harder Italian cheeses like Parmigiano Reggiano and younger cheeses such as fresh mozzarella. If you’d like to put together a more elaborate Italian board, our provolone knowledge page makes a great next read.

In hot dishes

Taleggio melts beautifully and lends a creamy, delicate flavor to cooked preparations. A classic is the Lombardian risotto with Taleggio and pear, or a polenta cremosa with Taleggio stirred through at the last moment. On a white pizza in place of mozzarella, Taleggio delivers a distinct character with a milder bite than gorgonzola. It also shines in a sandwich with bacon, a grilled panini with pear or a soufflé with spinach and walnuts.

As a finishing course

In Italy, Taleggio is often served after the main course, accompanied by fresh fruit, nuts and a glass of dessert wine. The combination with ripe pear or a spoonful of chestnut honey is a Lombardian classic that lets the cheese truly shine.

Which wine pairs with Taleggio?

The mild flavor and creamy texture of Taleggio call for wines with a round structure and not too much tannin. A light, fruity red wine works best. Classic regional pairings include a young Valpolicella, a Dolcetto d’Alba or a Bardolino. A Pinot Noir from France or Germany also works beautifully, thanks to its earthy fruit tones.

Prefer white? Go for a rounder Chardonnay without heavy oak aging, or an Italian Soave. With a fully aged Taleggio that has more depth, a sweet wine like Moscato d’Asti or a ripe Sauternes can be a surprising success, as the sweetness balances the salty rind. For beer lovers, a Belgian dubbel or a fruity blonde ale is equally well matched.

Storing Taleggio

Store Taleggio in the fridge at 4 to 8 degrees Celsius, preferably in a closed cheese box or wrapped in dedicated cheese paper. Plastic wrap is not ideal for longer than a day, because the cheese cannot release moisture and the rind stays sticky. A combination of grease-proof cheese paper with a layer of plastic around the outside keeps the cheese both fresh and able to breathe.

A cut Taleggio stays at its best for about a week. Over that time the flavor deepens slightly, which many lovers actually appreciate. Trim the rind away just before serving to preserve the aromas in the interior. Want to freeze Taleggio? You can, but the texture will suffer, and after thawing the cheese is better used in hot preparations like risotto or pasta than on a board.

Frequently asked questions about Taleggio

Is Taleggio the same cheese as stracchino?

Taleggio belongs to the broader family of stracchino cheeses from Lombardy, but it is a specific type with its own production rules and DOP protection. Other stracchino varieties such as Crescenza or Robiola are similar in texture to a young Taleggio, but lack the washed rind and its powerful aroma.

Can you eat the rind of Taleggio?

Yes, the rind is edible and carries a lot of umami and earthy notes. Anyone who finds the flavor too intense can trim it away thinly, but for lovers of raw-milk and washed-rind cheeses the rind actually adds depth.

Is Taleggio safe to eat during pregnancy?

Taleggio made from pasteurized milk is generally safe during pregnancy, provided it is kept properly chilled and the rind is removed. Raw-milk Taleggio (labeled latte crudo) is not recommended during pregnancy. If in doubt, check with your midwife.

How do you recognize a good Taleggio?

An authentic Taleggio carries a branded DOP stamp with four round circles on the rind. The rind should be slightly moist and pink-orange in color, with white mold spots. The interior should give a little under gentle pressure. A dried-out, hard rind or a crumbly core points to a cheese that is too old or has been stored poorly.

Which cheeses are similar to Taleggio?

If you love Taleggio and want to try something new, other washed-rind cheeses worth exploring include Munster from Alsace, Limburger from Belgium or Reblochon from the French Alps. All are soft cow’s milk cheeses with a washed rind, each with its own accent in flavor and origin. Italian melting enthusiasts can also visit our fontina knowledge page for a comparable Alpine cheese with a very different character.

Order Taleggio from Cheese In A Box

At Cheese In A Box we keep Taleggio in stock, carefully selected and transported chilled so it arrives at your door in perfect condition. Our Taleggio comes directly from Lombardy, carries DOP protection and is freshly cut just before shipping. Whether you want to feature it on a charcuterie and cheese board, melt it into a risotto or serve it as the finale to an Italian dinner, a block of Taleggio from CIAB always arrives in top condition. Check current availability below and order directly, or put together your own Italian selection through our cheese shop.